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I really can’t remember why I chose to cruise round the Outer Hebrides in April (the trip had been postponed for a couple of years due to the Covid epidemic) and I realised it was a mad decision on...
Spitsbergen was built to serve as a car and passenger ferry in Portugal in 2009, but due to financial crisis its original owners never took delivery of it and it languished, occasionally changing hands, for seven years -- not once sailing. Then in 2015, Hurtigruten decided to turn another ship in its fleet -- Midnatsol -- into one of its "Explorer" ships, thus taking it out of service from September to May. The line needed a replacement fast. It would take too long to build one, so they decided to buy this ship and turn it into a cruise ship. After a massive refurbishment, which saw cabins installed, the restaurant remodeled and car decks turned into passenger and crew decks, MS Spitsbergen entered service in June 2016.
As a result, it feels new, with contemporary classic Scandi blonde wood fittings throughout, light carpets and modern fittings.
Spitsbergen is small -- just 280 passengers (290 at double capacity), with one restaurant, one bistro/cafe, one bar and one observation lounge. But, it's ideal for navigating the narrow fjords along the Norwegian coast, which it does from September to May, calling in at 34 ports on a 1,250-nautical-mile journey from Bergen to Kirkenes.
It is also not a "traditional" cruise ship -- there is no cruise director, Broadway-style entertainment, pool parties, cinema or musicians playing in lounges. In fact, there is no entertainment at all, bar the daily port lectures; the action goes on outside, whether that's watching a pod of orcas swim past, jumping into warm clothes and rushing out to observe the northern lights or gazing up at a night sky untainted by any light pollution. There is also a plethora of shore excursions offered along the way.
Speaking of the northern lights -- special mention must be made to this -- it's one of the main reasons people take this cruise. And, if you are travelling at the right time of year, the chances are you will spot them, even if it's just a hazy green in the night sky. Hurtigruten has a button, "Northern Lights Info," on all its ships by the bed that you can choose to keep on and an announcement will be made at any time -- day or night -- telling you the lights have appeared (it's always fun to see people running outside in varied states of sleepy, cameras at the ready). In fact, Hurtigruten is so confident you will see the aurora borealis on your 11-night journey, there is even a Northern Lights Promise -- if you don't see them when sailing between October 1 and March 31, you'll be invited back for a free six- or seven-night cruise the following year during these same dates.
Back onboard there is one aspect of the ship that is as good as or better than you might find on a traditional cruise ship, and that's dining. There may be only one dining room onboard Spitsbergen, but the food is of exceptional quality. Hurtigruten make a virtue of its cuisine, always sourcing ultra-locally (usually from the port you've just pulled away from) and supporting local farmers and fisherman, so it's always fresh. There's also a wide variety of food -- even if some of it you may have never heard of.
The cabins are comfortable and contemporary (all Scandi wood and framed photos of Spitsbergen's ports of call), with big picture windows and modern bathrooms with lovely products.
Overall, Spitsbergen is a small, well-designed, comfortable ship that is ideal for the regions it cruises. And, it's clearly popular -- it won Cruise Critic U.K.'s Best Small Ship category in the 2018 U.K. Cruisers' Choice Awards.
The type of passengers onboard depends on the time of the year. From September to May the ship operates the full Norwegian Coastal Voyage, starting in Bergen and ending up in Kirkenes, stopping in 34 ports along the way and serving the local population, who jump on and off at different points. You'll get Norwegians who live along the coast using the ship as a ferry, while the other passengers will be on for the whole voyage -- all 11 nights round trip from Bergen.
From May to September, the ship operates under the line's "Explorer" brand and operates traditional cruises to Iceland, Greenland, the Faroe Islands, Svalbard and Spitsbergen. On these expedition voyages, expect to meet a more international crowd than on the coastal voyages, with a mix of fellow explorers from the U.S., U.K., Scandinavia, Germany and other European countries, as well as Oceania and Asia. All will have a common wish to explore, engage and interact.
"Arctic casual" is the name of the game, with anything that keeps you warm and dry in the winter and protected from the sun in the summer. There is no dinner dress code onboard.
There are three fare types with different inclusions. Basic includes accommodation and full-board dining only. Select adds internet, tea and coffee. Platinum also includes a drinks package with dinner, a la carte breakfast, two shore excursions and airport transfers, as well as some other fun inclusions like a visit to the bridge to meet the captain. Tipping is not customary in Norway, and tips are not part of your fare. You'll find a tips box at the restaurant with an envelope if you wish to tip. The currency onboard is the Norwegian krone (NOK).
Spitsbergen has 102 cabins (including six suites), spread across Decks 4, 5 and 7, and divided into two basic cabin types -- inside and outside, with the six balcony cabins classified as suites. However, there are tweaks and variations within these cabin types, depending on location.
All cabins are designed in simple, light Nordic pine, with off-white walls and have the following: two beds, either the type that can be pushed together or one twin and one pulldown bed (some have additional pulldowns as well); a hair dryer; a decent-sized safe (big enough for a laptop); a flat-screen TV with a number of channels including Disney, English language news channels and a sports channel; a fixed desk with a chair; and a bedside table. Some cabins also have a stool. There is ample closet space, plenty of drawers and room underneath the beds to store suitcases. Power sockets (Northern Europe 220v) are above the desk. There are two fixed lights and two reading lights. The picture window includes a blackout blind. There are temperature controls in the room. Lifejackets are in the muster stations on Deck 5, thus freeing up closet/drawer space.
Most of the cabins (excluding all rooms on Deck 4) have a kettle and tea, coffee and milk provided.
All cabins have exactly the same bathroom (except the suites), which include a shower with a clingy curtain. However, unlike on many cruise ships, there is no raised stall, just a shower area. This means more space (and less chance of the curtain clinging to you), but it also means that when the ship rolls the water goes everywhere. There is a little shelf for products and a clothesline to dry wet clothes.
The hand basin has a mirror with a square area that never mists, storage below and lovely Arctic Pure hand wash, shampoo and shower gel combo and conditioner made exclusively for Hurtigruten, which is fixed to the wall above the basin and in the shower. The floor is also gently heated -- a lovely touch.
There are also some smaller cabins sold as singles (though they also have a pulldown bed, so they can always sleep two people); eight family cabins and four accessible cabins are available in different categories.
Interior: There are 24 inside cabins (classified as Polar Inside), ranging from 9 square meters to 20 square meters. (Unlike on most cruise ships, many of the inside cabins are bigger than the outside cabins. But, it's worth noting that on a cruise like this it's really worth spending a bit more for an outside view.) There are three "grades" within this category: Inside cabin (with a pulldown bed); Inside (with double beds) and Superior, which are the biggest and can be found on Deck 7.
The design varies by deck: Interior cabins on Deck 7 are spacious, with a large bed and a desk marooned in a lot of space (they are crying out for a small table or a chair). The ones on Deck 4 are tiny and often sold as a single cabin (i.e., with no single supplement), even though they can sleep two people.
Oceanview: There are 72 exterior cabins across all three passenger decks (4, 5 and 6), divided into two categories: Arctic Superior and Polar Outside. Within these categories, there are a further nine classifications, depending on size and location. The smallest Polar Outsides start at 9 square meters (around 96 square feet) and are laid out with a single bed and a pulldown bed. These really are tiny and won't have much more than a small desk and a closet. The lowest grades (AJ/J) either have no view or a limited view. The majority of these are on Deck 4. The highest grade in this category are a respectable 13 square meters and have two beds that can be converted into a double. One grade down (N) are also 13 square meters and have two pulldown beds and a single bed (so can sleep three people). There are eight Arctic Superiors at 11 square meters (J) on Deck 7; however, most of the rest come in at 14 square meters, with the largest going up to 18 square meters. This grade also includes an accessible cabin (614), with a fully accessible bathroom. All have kettles and two beds, which can be converted into a double. (Worth noting: Deck 6 is the Promenade deck and people can look right in, so keep your blinds down).
Minisuite: There are just three of these, which range from 16 to 23 square meters. All are on Deck 4 and sold as family cabins. They all vary in design, but all have one thing in common: They can sleep up to four people -- two on beds and two on a sofa bed.
Suite: There are just six suites, all on Deck 6 -- two each on either side of the ship (Owner's suite) and two at the aft (Grand Suite), one of which (632, on the starboard side) is accessible. They are the only cabins with balconies. The suites are different in design, depending on where they are located on the ship.
The Grand Suites have a curtain to divide the two spaces, effectively creating two rooms. The living room area includes a desk with tea- and coffee-making facilities, a sofa, coffee table and two chairs. The oblong bathroom is also bigger, with a larger shower area and a glass door, although the products are the same. The bedroom area includes a queen bed and a chair. The major difference is a narrow balcony, which runs alongside the suite and is accessible via the living room. Note: It's only big enough to stand on.
The two Owner's Suites are at the aft of the ship, and as mentioned above the one on the starboard side is fully accessible (with fully accessible bathroom). A fixed room divider, which acts as a bed head on one side and a wall on which to fix the TV on the other, splits the room. The sleeping area includes a bed and a large window with a window seat; there's also a closet and double doors leading out onto the balcony. The living area includes a sofa, a coffee table and a fixed desk. The balcony has space for numerous chairs and tables.
The food onboard Spitsbergen is, in a word, outstanding. Hurtigruten takes great pride in sourcing ultra-local, so you will more often than not be eating food from the port you've just visited, whether that's the catch of the day caught literally hours before or local meat and vegetables or a pastry typical of the region. And, even though there is only one restaurant -- Torgen -- there's a lot of variety, as the menus change twice daily (for lunch and for dinner) on the entire 11-night journey, so you'll never have the same meal twice. Some of it is challenging (sheep's head, baked reindeer or veal), but there are plenty of alternatives, even if they are not marked (you can always ask for something else). Spitsbergen caters well for all dietary restrictions and even has a substantial, stand-alone menu for vegans. All dishes are marked with symbols to indicate gluten-free, lactose-free, vegetarian or vegan items either in the menu or on signs around the buffet.
The restaurant is light and airy, in typical Scandinavian style, with nice little decorative touches such as old books and binoculars. There are large picture windows right round with sloping ones at the back, and plenty of tables by the windows. Table sizes are in fours or twos, but they are not fixed so you can put them together if you are a bigger group. There are also some oval ones for six at the back of the restaurant. The buffet is at one end rather than in the middle. The restaurant seats 170 people.
Torgen Restaurant (Deck 5): This is the only restaurant onboard, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Breakfast is open seating buffet (and a la carte if you are on the Platinum package) and consists of eggs, bacon, sausages, different breads, smoked salmon, various pickled things like herrings (a Norwegian specialty), cold meats, cheeses, yogurts, juices, cereals, fresh fruit, tea and coffee from a dispenser. There is also a cooking station for "svele," delicious Norwegian pancakes. There is a gluten-free section and also numerous nondairy products available. Breakfast is served from 7 to 10 a.m.
Lunch is also open seating and buffet style. There is always a piping hot soup (carrot or onion), a salad selection, bread, plenty of cold meats, smoked salmon and locally caught shrimp or crayfish, roasted vegetables, baked potatoes and dishes such as pasta and sour cabbage or salted cod and bacon. There are lots of mains to choose from such as halibut, poached salmon, salted lamb and roast pork. Desserts are delicious and include ice cream, various cakes and chocolate parfait. Lunch is served from noon to 2 p.m.
There are two seatings at dinner (6:30 and 8:30 p.m.). Dinner is generally from a set menu, but there are extensive buffet options available. Every fourth day its only buffet style, but with recommended dishes. So, for example, on day 1 out of Bergen it's a buffet, with specialty dishes including pale soup from Bergen, fresh crab from Hitra, hen fricassee and "smalahove," or sheep's head. Then the following day you'll find a set menu with a starter of carpaccio of clipfish, followed by leg of lamb and then a dessert of apples done in various ways. There's a lot of emphasis on local fish and seafood such as clipfish, salmon, shrimp, king crab and Arctic char, which are all delicious (depending, of course, on whether you like fish), as well as lamb. If you look at the menu and you don't like what you see, just ask for an alternative, the kitchen is always quick to oblige. The dessert choices are delicious and unusual -- Russian-style ice cream made from caramelized bread (when you leave Kirkenes), soured milk pudding (tykkmelk) and yogurt cake.
There is a huge wine list (30 pages), with a suggested pairing every night. Unless you have opted for a Platinum package that includes beverages, wine, as in the whole of Norway, is expensive. Glasses start at 95 NOK (about $12); expect to pay upwards of $50 for a bottle. There is also a separate beer menu with a .61-liter (just over 20 ounces) glass starting at around 69 NOK (around $10).
There is no kids' menu as such, but the kitchen is always happy to oblige with serving up a simple pasta, soup, sausages or a burger and fries.
Brygga Bistro (Deck 5): The bistro serves specialty coffees, snacks, crisps and sandwiches for a fee from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Room Service: There is no "official" Room Service, but if you ask nicely you can get food delivered to your room (for example, if you have a small child or you are feeling ill).
Shore Excursions
There are too many shore excursions to list here, but a taster (during the winter) includes a night in the Snow Hotel, king crab fishing, husky sledding, snow shoeing, snowmobiling (at night and in the day), kayaking, Zodiac boat rides with experts, hiking and a dip into the sea above the Arctic Circle (not for the fainthearted!).
Summer excursions might include hiking, kayaking, small boat cruises, glacier hikes, bird-watching and polar bear spotting (from boats), depending where you are. In Iceland, there is a volcano excursion on offer.
There are also many other "softer" activities, such as cable car rides, city tours on foot and, one of the highlights, a midnight service in the Arctic Cathedral of Tromso.
Active excursions are, obviously, not suitable for wheelchair users, mobility impaired travelers or small children. The softer ones would suit all ages and abilities, especially as many of these involve literally walking off the ship and into town.
Wildlife Viewing
There is always plenty of wildlife to spot on a Hurtigruten cruise, and Spitsbergen is no exception. During the winter months, expect to see various whales, as they chase the mackerel up and down the coast, in particular orca, sometimes off the ship or even playing in the wake. Look out for birds, too, such as the white-tailed eagles, puffins, guillemots, auks, kittiwakes, cormorants and storm petrels, either flying around or nesting on sheer bird cliffs. If you're traveling on Spitsbergen during the summer months and you're headed to Svalbard, then you might spot polar bears and seals. There will always be an announcement if anything is spotted and the ship slows down to allow you to observe.
Take a pair of binoculars and a decent DSLR camera with a tripod. In the summer months, you may wish to take a GoPro or equivalent if you are an experienced diver.
Enrichment
In terms of enrichment, there is not a great deal on offer. Most of the lectures are about the ports, but they are fascinating, as all the talks weave in the history of the Norwegian coastline and the history of Hurtigruten, which celebrates 125 years in 2018.
Daytime and Evening Entertainment
There is no day or evening entertainment onboard MS Spitsbergen, just a few books and board games in the upper part of the lounge.
Explorer Lounge & Bar (Decks 5 & 6): The Explorer Lounge is two levels, though the bar is only on Deck 5. Deck 5 is the general, all-purpose meeting place for lectures on shore excursions or just hanging out in the day or the evening. Upstairs is more of an observatory area, surrounded by windows and with views over the bow of the ship. It's a large space with a faux fire at one end and stairs down to the outside and the bow (which you can stand on for wildlife watching), and stairs up to Deck 6. The space has a lot of seating, with some comfy sofas and some not-so-comfy low chairs, but it's getting a refurb, which will see the removal of all the very low chairs and replacing them with more practical-height ones. It's a convivial spot to have a drink in the evening or a coffee or tea during the day.
Spitsbergen has two hot tubs, right at the aft of the ship on Deck 7. Oddly the left hand one is not as hot as the right. There's nothing quite like making the dash from the sauna in the freezing cold to plunge into one of these. Note: Don't get your hair wet; otherwise, it will freeze.
There is a promenade on Deck 6.
You'll find all the services on Deck 5, including Reception, Shore Excursions and a gift shop, which sells essentials as well as T-shirts, tote bags and books about the northern lights. There is bow-to-stern Wi-Fi, which is fast and surprisingly cheap (50 NOK per day; 125 NOK for three days; 200 NOK for five days and 400 NOK for 11 days), or free on the Platinum package. There is a self-service launderette at the front of the ship on Deck 4, which is free during the winter months and for a nominal charge during the summer months.
Spitsbergen does not have a spa, but it does have a sauna on Deck 6, which is a godsend in the freezing winter months -- even if you have to access it from outside. It's pretty small but has a picture window so you can see how cold it is outside while you bake. It's a short walk to the two hot tubs.
There is a small fitness center with two treadmills, a bike, a rowing machine, a weights machine and free weights.
Spitsbergen does not have a kids' club nor any kids' programing either in or out of school holidays. There are quite a few connecting cabins and even some family rooms, but the ship is not designed for kids. There is no minimum age to sail (we had a baby on our sailing), but in terms of what's onboard and the shore excursions, we would recommend 8 years old and above. Having said that, the crew go out of their way to make families feel welcome and will always accommodate children in terms of food.
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